From: Gary Heston on
In article <0V5nj.2759$hI1.69(a)nlpi061.nbdc.sbc.com>,
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator <donna.ohl(a)sbcglobal.net> wrote:
[ ... ]
>I called another company, as you advised, and they came out this morning.
[ ... ]

>Here's what he wrote ...

>Found PSC Motor Running slow and High Limit kicking out
>& re-setting

Describing the problem--the High Limit is being triggered; I believe
that's the high pressure sensor you mentioned earlier. That means the
fan is trying to blow air, but it's backing up. Another possibility
is the motor overheating and triggering it's thermal protection switch,
which will reset when the motor cools orr.

> either bad motor or dirty coil.
>More than likely coil.
>Motor is not hot to touch.

The motor isn't over heating, so it and the High Limit are working correctly,
and the problem is that something is obstructing air flow downstream from
the blower--like a coil full of lint and debris, which got that way due to
the filter not being changed monthly like it's supposed to be.

>$80

What it cost to get the same basic answer your got from the first tech; the
coil needs to be cleaned. Have whichever outfit will charge less do it.


Gary

--
Gary Heston gheston(a)hiwaay.net http://www.thebreastcancersite.com/

We live in amazing times, when one person can invent both the Internet
and global warming, then get awarded a "peace prize".
From: Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator on
On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 18:45:15 -0500, Bubba wrote:
> PSC is Permanent Split Capacitor motor.

May I ask if the permanent split capacitor motor is the top smaller easily
replaced combusion air blower motor ... or if it's the bottom, larger
seemingly harder-to-replace house blower motor?

Donna
From: edbedb on
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator wrote:
> On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 18:45:15 -0500, Bubba wrote:
>
>>PSC is Permanent Split Capacitor motor.
>
>
> May I ask if the permanent split capacitor motor is the top smaller easily
> replaced combusion air blower motor ... or if it's the bottom, larger
> seemingly harder-to-replace house blower motor?
>
> Donna

Yes, you may ask.
From: Stormin Mormon on
The next step, at least for me. Is to check to see if the furnace is really
over heating. I've seen a bad high limit switch. In that case, the furance
kept shutting down, but the furnace and the ducts never really did get hot.

So, I'd want someone (maybe the tech, maybe yourself) to see if the duct
gets very hot, where the duct comes out of the furnace. If dirty evaporator
is the problem, then the top of the furnace will likely be too hot to touch.
Most of the high limit switches I've worked on, run about 180 to 200 when
they trip off. And that's too hot to put your hand on.

Please go to the furnace and (very carefully) try to touch the grey metal on
top of the furnace, where the heat goes to the house. Is it burny hot, luke
warm, or room temp? That will tell us a lot. Also feel the top inch or so of
the furnace, where it meets with the ducts. Is that burny hot, luke warm, or
room temp?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl(a)sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message news:QlHmj.704$R84.37(a)newssvr25.news.prodigy.net...
On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 13:51:31 -0500, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> Maybe the folks who build them would prefer that only
> the trained techs work on them?

Well, the guy called yesterday and said a client cancelled and ended up
coming over 1 day early.

He fiddled with a paper clip in the combustion motor orifice but that
didn't solve anything. He looked about, here and there, and decided
something was wrong but he knew not what. He cleaned the flame sensor but
that didn't change anything.

He said basically what everyone here said. There is something wrong with
the flow of air because the furnace is shutting itself off. He said we'd
have to pay 400 for his son to come back and clean out the "condenser
coils". I was aghast that he was guessing what the problem was and that his
son was doing the work but he said he was qualified. So, I paid the $100
visit fee and 25% of the cleaning fee as what could I do (you all said we
have to bring over the tech folks).

My new question ... Is this a normal thing where the problem isn't obvious
so you start cleaning? It seems so based on the prior responses here but
I'd like to doublecheck, especially since four days takehome pay (for me)
are riding on this.

Thanks for your advice,
Donna


From: Stormin Mormon on
Still curious if the ducts up top of the furnace are hot. I'll insert some
American language translation.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl(a)sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message news:0V5nj.2759$hI1.69(a)nlpi061.nbdc.sbc.com...

Can you help decode this for me? The furnace is working but I think only
because he changed a setting on one of the motors.

Here's what he wrote ...

Found PSC Motor Running slow

CY: The blower motor is running a bit slow. Could be bad motor, or mabye
needs a squirt of oil used for electric motors.

and High Limit kicking out
& re-setting

CY: The top of the furnace is overheating, the safety switch is shutting off
the gas to the furnace. This is a safety feature, to keep the furnace from
catching fire.

either bad motor or dirty coil.

CY: The coil he means is the part of the AC system that gets cold. The
evaporator is typically mounted over the top of the furnace.

More than likely coil.
Motor is not hot to touch.

CY: If the fan blower motor was bad, sometimes they will get very hot while
they are running.


$80

CY: About right for a house call and diagnostic.