CFL specs: "SBCFL" Floodlights?
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From: JR Weiss on 12 Sep 2008 18:29 Today I replaced an outside floodlight fixture with IR and motion sensors. I got one that specifically said on the outside of the box that it was compatible with CFL bulbs. In the spec sheet, however, it specifies "SBCFL" bulbs of max 30 watts each. So, what is "SBCFL"? Do I have to look for something specific on the package? Also, this fixture has an option of running the bulbs at "half brightness" for specified periods. Assuming I can find dimmable CFL floods, are there any cautions with their use?
From: Dave on 12 Sep 2008 19:13 "JR Weiss" <jrweiss98155remove(a)remove.comcast.net> wrote in message news:TuqdnXECJZf7cFfVnZ2dnUVZ_rHinZ2d(a)comcast.com... > Today I replaced an outside floodlight fixture with IR and motion sensors. > I got one that specifically said on the outside of the box that it was > compatible with CFL bulbs. In the spec sheet, however, it specifies > "SBCFL" bulbs of max 30 watts each. > > So, what is "SBCFL"? Do I have to look for something specific on the > package? Self-ballasted. Kind of redundant, as all COMPACT (the "C" in CFL) fluorescents are self-ballasted. No, you don't need to look for anything specific on the package. Main thing is to make sure that the actual power draw is 30W or less (though the light output rating will probably be listed as much higher, like 80W or something) and that the CFL has the same type of base (the screw part) that your fixture is compatible with. > Also, this fixture has an option of running the bulbs at "half brightness" > for specified periods. Assuming I can find dimmable CFL floods, are there > any cautions with their use? OK, don't know if dimmable CFL floods exist. I'd be surprised if they do. I'd suggest that you NOT use the half brightness feature for CFL floods. First, you have nothing to gain by doing so. CFL floods are not as bright as other floods to begin with. So they are about "half brightness" right out of the box*. If a dimmable version of a CFL flood existed, I'd have to ask WHY?!? Also, the only reason to run the flood at half brightness would be to save energy. But you are saving better than 50% of electricity just by using CFL floods. (assuming you are willing to put up with decreased brightness, see below) Also, the ballast in the self-ballast CFL flood will require full voltage to work properly. If you reduce the input voltage to the CFL flood (by using the "half brightness" setting), one of two things will likely happen: 1) Nothing (the bulb won't light) 2) Bulb will light, but lifetime of the CFL flood bulb will be GREATLY reduced * CFL bulbs (including CFL floods) are rated according to their incandescent equivalent, but those ratings are greatly optimistic. For example, if you get a "100W" CFL that uses 27W of power, the light output would be roughly equivalent to a 50W or 60W incandescent bulb, but the CFL manufacturers want you to believe that it is a good replacement for a 100W incandescent. To truly get 100W incandescent brightness, you might need a "150W" or more RATED CFL, which might draw 50W or more of actual power. So in the end, you might be wondering if it's even worth it to pay extra for the CFL? I mean, if you get equivalent brightness, you really aren't saving all that much, in terms of electricity usage or money. I prefer CFL for other reasons though. I've had CFLs last for several years while similar incandescent bulbs are doing pretty good to last for several weeks. Some of my floodlights are mounted about 20' off the ground on the side of my house (very hard to reach, even with a ladder). Not to mention the ordinary indoor fixture at the top of the stairwell where NO ladder can reach, easily. In these locations, having a bulb last several years is a GOOD thing, and the slight energy savings is just an added bonus.
From: JR Weiss on 12 Sep 2008 19:33 "Dave" <noway(a)nohow.not> wrote... > >> So, what is "SBCFL"? Do I have to look for something specific on the >> package? > > Self-ballasted. Kind of redundant, as all COMPACT (the "C" in CFL) > fluorescents are self-ballasted. No, you don't need to look for anything > specific on the package. Thanks! > OK, don't know if dimmable CFL floods exist. I'd be surprised if they do. "Dimmable" CFLs exist, but I've only used a couple of them to avoid having to replace dimmer switches already installed. As you noted below, they didn't last very long, now that you mention it... > I'd suggest that you NOT use the half brightness feature for CFL floods. .. . . > Also, the ballast in the self-ballast CFL flood will require full voltage to > work properly. If you reduce the input voltage to the CFL flood (by using the > "half brightness" setting), one of two things will likely happen: .. . . > 2) Bulb will light, but lifetime of the CFL flood bulb will be GREATLY > reduced OK. Thanks for the info.
From: Don Klipstein on 14 Sep 2008 00:58 In article <TuqdnXECJZf7cFfVnZ2dnUVZ_rHinZ2d(a)comcast.com>, JR Weiss wrote: >Today I replaced an outside floodlight fixture with IR and motion >sensors. I got one that specifically said on the outside of the box that >it was compatible with CFL bulbs. In the spec sheet, however, it >specifies "SBCFL" bulbs of max 30 watts each. > >So, what is "SBCFL"? Do I have to look for something specific on the >package? > >Also, this fixture has an option of running the bulbs at "half >brightness" for specified periods. Assuming I can find dimmable CFL >floods, are there any cautions with their use? Motion sensor floods are a bad application for CFLs. Cold cathode CFLs do well there (lack of starting-related wear, even used in marquees in Las Vegas!), unless the temperature is below 90-95 F (32-35 C) in which case they need time to warm up from "seriously dim" unless they are on a lot and have been for the previous several minutes. Cold cathode CFLs also mainly come in wattages around 8-9 watts or less, and are less efficient than the usual hot cathode ones if the wattage is over 4 watts. The cold cathode ones usualy have longer life expectancy of 20,000-or-so hours. Bottom line: For motion sensor floods, use incandescent. If they are on so much as to deserve a more energy-efficient lamp, then ditch the motion sensor. Beyond that - see if you can find an LED lamp rated for dimmers and electronic switching devices - then you can put an LED lamp in your motion sensor floodlight. LED lamps have no need to warm up and do not suffer wear from starting. Good luck finding one more than half as bright as about 50 watts incandescent floodlight equivalence, regardless of what is claimed. Good Luck, - Don Klipstein (don(a)misty.com)
From: Don Klipstein on 14 Sep 2008 01:06
In article <gaet25$bpv$1(a)registered.motzarella.org>, Dave wrote: > >"JR Weiss" <jrweiss98155remove(a)remove.comcast.net> wrote in message >news:TuqdnXECJZf7cFfVnZ2dnUVZ_rHinZ2d(a)comcast.com... >> Today I replaced an outside floodlight fixture with IR and motion sensors. >> I got one that specifically said on the outside of the box that it was >> compatible with CFL bulbs. In the spec sheet, however, it specifies >> "SBCFL" bulbs of max 30 watts each. >> >> So, what is "SBCFL"? Do I have to look for something specific on the >> package? > >Self-ballasted. Kind of redundant, as all COMPACT (the "C" in CFL) >fluorescents are self-ballasted. Only true of ones with screw bases. Most without screw bases are not self-ballasted. Major examples are: PLC-26/F26DTT PLC-13/F13DTT, PL-13/F13TT PLC-9/F9DTT, PL-9/F9TT PL-7/F7TT PL-5/F5TT There are a few others Ballastless CFLs are popular in commercial installations, especially in recessed ceiling fixtures - one advantage is that the ballast is separated from the heat of the bulb! There are also "dimming ballasts" for nice smooth great dimming of CFLs - requiring ballastless compatible CFLs! (Along often-usually with their own related special dimmer controls) There are a few pin base SBCFLs (I have yet to see any) for use in newer construction in California that has its own energy efficiency mandates as well as the "known to the State of California to cause cancer" stuff... - Don Klipstein (don(a)misty.com) No, you don't need to look for anything >specific on the package. Main thing is to make sure that the actual power >draw is 30W or less (though the light output rating will probably be listed >as much higher, like 80W or something) and that the CFL has the same type of >base (the screw part) that your fixture is compatible with. > >> Also, this fixture has an option of running the bulbs at "half brightness" >> for specified periods. Assuming I can find dimmable CFL floods, are there >> any cautions with their use? > >OK, don't know if dimmable CFL floods exist. I'd be surprised if they do. > >I'd suggest that you NOT use the half brightness feature for CFL floods. >First, you have nothing to gain by doing so. CFL floods are not as bright >as other floods to begin with. So they are about "half brightness" right >out of the box*. If a dimmable version of a CFL flood existed, I'd have to >ask WHY?!? Also, the only reason to run the flood at half brightness would >be to save energy. But you are saving better than 50% of electricity just >by using CFL floods. (assuming you are willing to put up with decreased >brightness, see below) > >Also, the ballast in the self-ballast CFL flood will require full voltage to >work properly. If you reduce the input voltage to the CFL flood (by using >the "half brightness" setting), one of two things will likely happen: >1) Nothing (the bulb won't light) >2) Bulb will light, but lifetime of the CFL flood bulb will be GREATLY >reduced > >* CFL bulbs (including CFL floods) are rated according to their >incandescent equivalent, but those ratings are greatly optimistic. For >example, if you get a "100W" CFL that uses 27W of power, the light output >would be roughly equivalent to a 50W or 60W incandescent bulb, but the CFL >manufacturers want you to believe that it is a good replacement for a 100W >incandescent. To truly get 100W incandescent brightness, you might need a >"150W" or more RATED CFL, which might draw 50W or more of actual power. So >in the end, you might be wondering if it's even worth it to pay extra for >the CFL? I mean, if you get equivalent brightness, you really aren't saving >all that much, in terms of electricity usage or money. I prefer CFL for >other reasons though. I've had CFLs last for several years while similar >incandescent bulbs are doing pretty good to last for several weeks. Some of >my floodlights are mounted about 20' off the ground on the side of my house >(very hard to reach, even with a ladder). Not to mention the ordinary >indoor fixture at the top of the stairwell where NO ladder can reach, >easily. In these locations, having a bulb last several years is a GOOD >thing, and the slight energy savings is just an added bonus. > > > |